The Guide to Hair Extensions PDF Print E-mail
Written by James Lai   
Thursday, 12 June 2008

hair extensions

Extensions have been used to enhance the look of hair styles by adding thickness, color and length. Some of the methods of adding extensions to hair include bonding, braiding, and fusion.

Bonding Glue

Bonding is a technique that is used when an adhesive is applied to the base of the extension. That extension is then placed on the hair approximately 1/8” from the base of the scalp (on the hair). A blow cold or warm blow dryer is used to speed the drying process of the adhesive, until the adhesive has dried. Once the adhesive has dried, another extension or track can be applied.

Advantages: Bonded extensions are for hair styles lasting 1-7 days. The bond can be removed by applying hair oil to the scalp where the adhesive is and slowly pull the extension from the hair.

Disadvantages: Continuous use of bonding adhesive applied in the same areas can cause hair loss in that area over time.

Braided Track Method

The braided track method is the most commonly used method to apply extensions. The braided method can be used to apply individual extensions and Full Weaves. Once the braid has been created, the extension can be sewn onto the braid to create the extension (track). Do this repeatedly and you have created for the client hair that is thicker and/or fuller. The hair can then be cut and styled as desired.

Advantages: The braided track method is less damaging to the hair compared to bonded tracks. Hair can be replaced easily by cutting the thread and sewing on another extension.

Disadvantages: If braids are braided too tight, hair breakage can result further damaging the hair and causing a form of alopecia. Make sure braids are comfortable and tracks aren’t sewn too tight.

Fusion

Fusion is another method used to apply extensions with the use of an adhesive. Loose hair is gathered at the end; a heated adhesive is applied and placed near the based of the scalp adhering to the client’s hair approximately 1/8” from the scalp. This is done repeatedly to created fullness and length as desired by the client. This method is used to fill and extend small sections of a person’s  hair. It can also be used for streaks and hair color in specific areas of the head.

Advantages: Client can run fingers through hair

Disadvantages: Preferred to be used on straight hair. Oils tend to break down the adhesive and cause the extension to separate from the hair.

Types of extensions

Extensions can be applied with several types of extensions; bulk (no weft), machine weft and hand-tied wefts. Bulk wefts are used with the fusion application. This hair is loose and free flowing. It is not sewn together. Companies that sell fusion kits also provide hair that has been pre-tipped with adhesive on the end to make the application easier and faster.

Machine wefts and hand-tied wefts are mostly used with the braided track method. In comparison, hand-tied wefts  are thinner and lay flatter to head to achieve an even more undetectable weave. Hand-tied wefts are best used when the tracks are left un-cut; as these wefts unravel after they are cut because the hair is hand-tied together. These wefts also are more flexible and can be manipulated more easily in order to place hair at certain angles where needed.

100% Human Hair

Many people are buying Virgin Indian hair versus the regular hair found in beauty supply stores. Even hair stylists are recommending Indian hair or 100% human hair over the beauty supplied, synthetic replica. It has been shown that Virgin or 100% human hair lasts longer and looks healthier than hair that has been processed. The 100% human hair has and can be professionally custom colored. This is a big plus for clients and hair stylist abroad because clients can get a custom color they desire that can be achieve repeatedly , versus trying to find a pre-made package of hair a shade or two lighter or darker to the color they really want.

The texture of human hair allows versatility in the style. For example, a person with a weave made of Curly Indian Hair has several style options – straight, curled with a curling iron, or naturally curly. The ease of changing styles form curly to straight can be easily achieved with a comb, hair spray and a ceramic iron. Going back to curly? Wet the hair and allow it to air dry and watch the curls spring back to life.

Deciding how to add in extensions, and the choice between machine  and hand-tied wefts  is based upon the desired style as well as client preference. Consulting with a professional hair stylist is recommended before purchasing extensions to ensure the best hair and technique for the style.


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